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Ráckeve on the Danube

Historic Serbian Village on Csepel Island Near Budapest

© Christiane Birkett

Rackeve Serbian Church, Christiane Birkett
A fantastically decorated Serbian Orthodox Church, historic mansion, lovely parks on the Danube and proximity to Budapest all make Ráckeve well worth visiting.

Nowadays, it's said that the travelling to a place is just as important as the place itself, so if you wish to visit Ráckeve, 40 kms to the south of Budapest, on the far south of Csepel Island – you’ll have a treat. First an interesting journey there, and then the sights of the village itself – the historic church, the palace mansion – now a hotel – and also the delights of parkland and the Danube River.

Number Two Tram From Budapest

The best way to start the trip is on the Number Two tram, which trundles along the shores of the Danube from uptown Budapest, passing the Houses of Parliament, the beautifully renovated Vigadó building, the market hall, various churches, and other sights. You also get a fantastic view of the castle district on the other side of the river, and also, of courses, of the bridges over the Danube.

HEV Train

Don't get off when you see the first station for the HEV train. This one only takes you to Csepel, not to Ráckeve. Take the tram right to the end of the line – Közvágóhíd – cross the road, and take the green HEV train to its end station of Ráckeve.

Long and Interesting Ride

It's a nice little train, but the journey is long. It takes over an hour to cover the 40 kms and there are 26 stops. Sometimes only a white line separates the train from the road or the pavement where pedestrians loiter. Sometimes you feel as though you are passing through people’s backyards. But gradually the suburbs give way to fields planted with crops, to vineyards, and to patches of forest with branches hanging over the rails.

Magnificent Savoy Mansion Hotel

When the train finally stops, you are truly out in the country. The station is about 15 minutes walk from the centre of town. On the way you see the Danube on one side, and the magnificent Savoy mansion, designed for Prince Eugene in 1722. This was a practise run for the architect, as he later planned the Schonbrunn place in Vienna.

Serbian Orthodox Church

Rác is an old Hungarian word meaning Serb and these people fled to this island from the Turks in the 1400s. They began to build their church in 1487. It's easy to spot with its blue bell tower near the centre of town. Inside, the church is decorated – every square inch of wall and ceiling space is covered with religious paintings, executed in 18th century to instruct the peasants, who usually couldn't read, in the aspects of biblical teaching.

Photography Forbidden

It’s truly awe inspiring, but unfortunately photography is forbidden, so you’ll have to be content to just feast your eyes. There’s a caretaker/cashier on duty who gives a run down on the history of the church and details about the paintings, but unfortunately in Hungarian only. It's also closed on Mondays, as most museums are in Hungary.

Festivals

Ráckeve is a quiet little village, nothing like bustling touristy Szentendre, which also has a Serbian history, and which is to the north of Budapest. But in August, during the days of the international folk festival – Summerfest – the town rocks to the sounds and sights of dancers from as far afield as Australia, Mexico and South America.

Last Train

The last train back to Budapest leaves at 23.30.


The copyright of the article Ráckeve on the Danube in Hungary Travel is owned by Christiane Birkett. Permission to republish Ráckeve on the Danube in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.





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